Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Survived: Kilimanjaro Half Marathon

We returned Sunday from a great weekend in the northern part of Tanzania near the Kenya border and had an excellent half marathon experience.  We arrived at Kilimanjaro International Airport, which is pretty much halfway between Arusha and Moshi, on Friday afternoon.


You can see how "international" the airport is as people are just roaming the tarmac (including Lucy and our running friend Diana).


We took the Precision Air shuttle bus to Arusha for supper at a boutique hotel called The Bay Leaf that had been recommended to us by Matt and Nena (our housemates in Rwanda).


I had Kenyan beef and Lucy had a stuffed chicken dish.  Both were pretty good and the atmosphere was very pleasant, but it did not surpass Brew Bistro in Nairobi as the best restaurant we have been to East Africa.  We ate at Brew Bistro twice when we were in town over Christmas and would highly recommend it to anyone.


Birthday Weekend in Zanzibar

For my birthday this year, Lucy surprised me with planning a trip to Zanzibar to go swimming with giant sea turtles at the Chumbe Island Coral Park off the western coast of the island.  I returned from the field early Friday morning 28 January, had a few meetings in the office, and picked up Lucy to get on the last ferry of the day to Zanzibar (4pm).


We arrived in Stone Town around 6pm to make the sunset at the Africa House Hotel.



Kilimanjaro Half Marathon

After a few weeks of training (Lucy) and trying not to be hobbled by said training (Jon), Lucy and I are running the Kilimanjaro Half Marathon this weekend.  Lucy is in prime shape and ready to tackle part of the highest mountain in Africa (from base to peak, Kilimanjaro is actually the highest mountain in the world).  I hope to survive 21.1km (half uphill, half downhill) starting at an elevation around 3,500 feet.  We have to finish in the first 1,650 to receive medals and t-shirts so we have a goal.  This video pretty much sums it up.



We fly to Kilimanjaro Airport on Friday night and plan to go on a safari in Arusha National Park on Saturday.  The race begins at 7am Sunday morning (10pm Saturday night, CST) at the stadium in Moshi, home of this  business.


We fly back to Dar on Sunday afternoon.

Wish us luck!

Merry Christmas from London


Merry Christmas to everyone!

Lucy and I arrived in London for the holidays early Thursday morning after being snowed out in Nairobi for a few days. We changed from our shorts and flip flops at Heathrow and took the subway into town looking a bit like a traveling circus.


We are staying in a very nice flat in Chelsea that belongs to a friend of Lucy’s family.  Our blood has thinned significantly since leaving Hanover so it feels quite cold to us here and are each wearing multiple layers of long underwear at all times for safety.  The grocery store around the corner has been visited four times and we have stored up butter, cheese, and chocolate for the long winter ahead.

Yesterday afternoon we went to St. Paul’s for a carol service but were unable to get inside it was so full.  They had set up a jumbo screen to broadcast the service in a nearby square so we stood in the cold singing carols with a couple hundred of Lucy’s fellow countrymen.


After the service, we took the tube back to our neighborhood and did only what seemed appropriate when in England on Christmas Eve: stopped in the local pub for a snack and beer.  We had some excellent warm brie with red onion chutney and some sweet potato fries (Lucy: “best I’ve ever had”) to go with my Guinness and her blueberry cider.


This morning Lucy had a stocking for me with dark chocolate covered ginger and an orange in it.  We had tea and french toast for breakfast.  We went to church at St. Luke’s (built in 1825) across the street from the flat.


We have a small tree from Nakumatt in Nairobi with two maasai angel ornaments on it.  We don't have any presents, but we feel quite festive and are certainly happy to be here.

Nairobi Safari Day

This morning we did the Nairobi safari loop of Nairobi National Park, Elephant Orphanage, Giraffe Sanctuary, and Karen Blixen House.  We ran into a male lion on the side of the road while in the park and have some pretty awesome pictures.
 

Queue music from The Lion King: Original Motion Picture Soundtrack.


 Our flight was canceled to London tonight so we are in Nairobi for a few more days...

More Interesting Africa and Coffee Articles

The second installment of interesting articles that help explain some of the issues in Africa:
  • NYTimes: Somali Refugees Fear Loss of Ugandan Haven (7/21/10) - After the explosions in Kampala during the World Cup Final, Uganda has dramatically altered its asylum protocol.
  • WSJ: In Crisis, Foreigners Turn to $100 Bill (7/20/10) - $100 bills (post-2004 Series) are certainly the  currency of choice in East Africa.
  • WSJ: Global AIDS Fight Shifts Toward Prevention (7/17/10) - More discussion about which is a more effective form of healthcare aid: prevention or treatment.
  • NYTimes: Tricked, Rwandan Refugees Are Driven Home, U.N. Says (7/16/10) - Rwandan refugees in southern Uganda are being forced to repatriate through deception.
  • NYTimes: Our New Life, in Blood and Color (7/16/10) - Thoughtful opinion piece on the aftermath of the bombings in Kampala.
  • WSJ: Militants Find Symbolic Targets in Uganda (7/13/10) - We have traveled to Kampala twice (See map of places we have been) and the recent terrorist attacks there have reminded people how unstable things still are in East Africa.
  • NYTimes: Islamists Claim Attack in Uganda (7/12/10) - Many people heard about the attacks in Kampala during the World Cup finals.
  • NYTimes: For Final, South Africans Put Past Aside (7/10/10) - As former colonial masters, the Dutch were not the most kind rulers of South Africa, but when it came to the World Cup final the preference of the people based more on style of play.
  • WSJ: The Tenacious Buzz of Malaria (7/10/10) - Brief history of attempts to contain malaria.  After not taking anti-malarials last year in Rwanda, we will likely be taking Malarone everyday next year in attempt to avoid contracting the disease.
  • NYTimes: Walking With the Herds in Kenya (7/1/10) - I've traveled this road twice visiting Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru northwest of Nairobi.
  • WSJ: Talks Stall on Zimbabwe Diamonds (6/24/10) - Africa is very rich in minerals and it tends to be quite easy for governments to exploit their country's natural wealth. 
  • NYTimes: Diamond Find Could Aid Zimbabwe, and Mugabe (6/21/10) - Root story related to article above.
  • WSJ: Toxic Citizens? (6/13/10) - Another article on expatriates renouncing their U.S. citizenship due to the Patriot Act and changes in taxation.  Some international banks are also rejecting account applications from U.S. citizens just to avoid getting involved.
  • NYTimes: Children Carry Guns for a U.S. Ally, Somalia (6/13/10) - Title pretty much sums it up...
  • NYTimes: To Save Africa, Reject Its Nations (6/11/10) - Independence from Europe's colonizers swept across Africa 50 years ago.  Since then many of these new nations have been governed by corrupt leaders who have exploited their position for personal gain with many of the leaders remaining in power for decades.  Is there a remedy for this?
  • The Atlantic: Brewing an Antidote to Poverty: Coffee (5/25/10) - The author, Jerry Baldwin, is a co-founder of Starbucks and on TechnoServe's board.  He came to visit the Coffee Initiative and does a great job offering a high-level explanation of the project.
  • NYTimes: Moonshine or the Kids? (5/22/10) - Witnessing gender roles in Africa has been one of the most interesting aspects of living abroad.  Women tend to raise the children while tending the fields with the youngest child tied to their back.  Men tend to reserve the more "technical" roles for themselves but this often results in a lot of standing around and chatting with the other men.  Men usually collect all the paychecks and spend the money as they see fit (sometimes on alcohol and prostitutes).
  • New Yorker: The Povery Lab (5/17/10) - This is just an abstract of a profile on Esther Duflo who could win the Nobel Prize for Economics in the coming years for her work in development economics with the Abdul Latif Jameel Povery Action Lab (J-PAL).  The TechnoServe Coffee Initiative has partnered with J-PAL on a few projects and Esther came to visit the office in Kigali for a few days.  The article says the following: "Duflo had started the day at a meeting in the Kigali offices of TechnoServe...It was a place of chinos and strong handshakes.  The Harvard Business Review was available in the lobby, and someone was eating a bagel..."  When the article came out it was universally recognized that this line was talking about me.
  • NYTimes: For Rwandan Students, Ethnic Tensions Lurk (5/16/10) - Pretty telling article on the current political scene and how it affects the conversation about the genocide.
  • NYTimes: Visiting Africa's Eden (5/14/10) - Africa is obviously full of beautiful, exotic places but they are virtually unknown (or ignored) by the local population
  • NYTimes: Rumors of Conspiracies Rattle Madagascar (5/14/10) - I've always had an interest in visiting Madagascar and the government being unstable makes it even more appealing! 
  • NYTimes: At Front Lines, AIDS War Is Falling Apart (5/9/10) - Brings up the discussion again of what is the best way to spend development money to improve the health of the developing world as HIV/AIDS treatment programs around the world are losing their funding.  The last estimate I heard was that 3% of Rwanda's population had been diagnosed with HIV/AIDS.
  • The Huffington Post: Nothing Good Comes Out of Africa (5/3/10) - This is a must read on Rwanda!
  • NYTimes: Rwanda Pursues Dissenters and the Homeless (4/30/10) - This is a must read article on Rwanda!  Sheds light on one way the government keeps the appearing so clean and organized.  My friends who work in the Prime Minister's office (and other government groups) recently confirmed with me that none of the vocational training mentioned is actually taking place, with only suspect plans to begin in the future.
  • WSJ: A Supply-Sider in East Africa (4/24/10) - This is a must read interview with the President of Rwanda, Paul Kagame.  You can see how the international community backs him no questions asked.  As some of the other articles here indicate, things in Rwanda may not be as rosy as people seem to think.
  • BBC: Illegal Banana Gin 'Kills 80' in Uganda (4/23/10) - We were at Lake Buyonyi near Kabale for the weekend when people started dying after drinking waragi (typically a step down from paint thinner).  The area was in such panic that our really nice island hotel where we stay poured out all of their waragi!
  • NYTimes: 16 Years after the Genocide, Rwanda Continues Forward (4/6/10) - We have met the author of this article a handful of times as he and his wife, among other projects, own the most expat focused restaurant in Kigali, Heaven.
  • NYTimes: Mauritius Dreaming (4/4/10) - Who knew Mauritius is on the other side of Madagascar?  Now that Iceland and Zanzibar have been checked off the list I have to step up the dream travel spectrum.  Lucy and I are officially moving to Dar es Salaam Tanzania next year so both places are well within reach for a vacation (looks like via Johannesburg or Dubai) and we will be looking for traveling companions!
And some more articles on coffee:

Advances in Sunscreen

Having had skin cancer in my family, I try to pay attention to new information on how to protect yourself from the sun.  There are always new products coming out including detergents and clothing that enhance sun protection.  A recent article (NYTimes: UVA Reform: It's Not PDQ) discusses the FDA delays in adding a rating system for UVA protection to the existing UVB projection (e.g. SPF 30).

It is going to be very hot and sunny in Dar es Salaam next year (See picture below from when we visited Zanzibar), particularly when compared to Kigali, so we are going to have to be extra diligent in putting on sunscreen.


I Went, I Saw, I Conquered

Two weeks ago, I was in the Democratic Republic of Congo waking up at the edge of the crater of a 11,385 foot active volcano.  After a five hour hike literally straight up the Nyiragongo Volcano (switchback trails haven't found their way to Africa yet) through first jungles then volcanic pumice covering about 5000 feet of vertical climb, I reached the top of the volcano and its active lava lake.  Tents were set up right on the edge of the crater and I settled in for the night to watch the lave lake spew sulfurous gas, gurgle explosive lava, and emit enough heat to warm me from less than half a mile away.  I don't know of any other place in the world where you can do this and the picture below pretty much sums up the experience.


The town of Goma in the DRC is directly over the border from Giseyni, the largest city in northwestern Rwanda, and on the northern shores of Lake Kivu.  Congo and Goma itself receive a lot of attention from the international press for a variety of reasons including the countries rich mineral deposits and the seemingly unchecked rebels that exploit these minerals while raping and pillaging everyone and everything that stands in their way.  Eastern Congo also has many refugees from the Rwandan genocide more than 15 years ago that occasionally add fuel to the rebels fire.  For this reason the park that contains Nyiragongo has been closed for nearly two years and only reopened in March 2010 for tourists to visit (See picture below for bullet holes in national park sign).


Another concerning factor is that Nyiragongo is in fact an active volcano and has had two major eruptions in the last 30 years or so.  In January 2002, the volcano erupted, essentially repaved the entire city of Goma and furthering the despair of its 400,000 inhabitants (NYTimes: Volcano's Lava Engulfs a Congo Town & NYTimes: Warily, Residents Return to Lava-Scarred Congo City).  While the picture below may look staged, it in fact was not as the child in the picture just happened to be rummaging around in the lava flow that wiped out the Catholic Church in Goma.


So as you can tell, Congo is a pretty exciting place and climbing the volcano truly was the experience of a lifetime.  I will run through some picture highlights below but also uploaded a bunch of pictures from the trip.

Outskirts of Goma town with Nyiragongo in the background.  Note people on the right carrying bags of lava rocks to be used for building houses and fences.  It is pretty much the only building material available locally.  The right side of the picture is sharp lava rocks from the lava flow that have never been smoothed over (like on the left side of the picture.


About halfway up the mountain...


This type of volcanic surface is pretty much what you find the entire way.  My hiking boots were purchased in Nashville when I was in 8th grade.


A break with my porter...


About halfway up...


See the steam vents in the background at one of the rest stops...also note our guards...


Peak covered in clouds...


Getting higher...


Landscape is changing...


That is my porter on the last stretch...


Moonscape...


Summit...


Lava lake...



Sunset blocked by sulphuric gas...


My tent with my porter on the edge of the crater...


Lava lake at night...



Full moon and clear night...


Next morning...



On the way back down...


Other links on the volcano that may be of interest:
Other links on Congo that may be of interest:

My First Earthquake

Sitting at my desk, I could feel my body shaking and my Nalgene next to me has a fluctuating water level.  Very exciting!  I've been told there have been a few since we have been here but this was the first I really felt.

On that note, I am planning to climb the Nyiragongo Volcano in Congo this weekend because it is awesome.  Check out this blog entry on another TechnoServe person's blog about his trip.  Sounds pretty X-treme (Mountain Dew Code Red!)


Plan is to survive!

Also, looks like I will be headed back to the U.S. around June 8 with a pretty hectic summer schedule before returning to Africa in September.  Lucy is leaving at the end of June once the school year finishes.

Congo Here We Come

We are going to see the gorillas again in a few weeks, and I want to go to Goma in the Democratic Republic of the Congo for a bit so I am looking into what kind of visa I need to get.  Naturally I can't find much (probably since I don't need much of one) but I have found this lovely message from the Warden at the U.S. Embassy in Kigali and received the following email on April 22, 2010:

The Department of State warns U.S. citizens of the risks of traveling to the Democratic Republic of the Congo (Congo-Kinshasa). This notice replaces the Travel Warning dated September 1, 2009 to reflect continued instability in North Kivu province and the surrounding area, the ongoing risk of possible unannounced flare-ups of violence in other parts of the country, and the critical crime threat in Kinshasa. 

Government soldiers, as well as rebel fighters, remain a security concern. These armed groups -- located especially in North Kivu, South Kivu, Orientale, and Bas-Congo provinces, as well as the northern part of Katanga province -- are known to pillage, steal vehicles, kidnap, rape, kill, and carry out military or paramilitary operations in which civilians are indiscriminately targeted.

In two separate incidents in early April 2010, one in Equateur province in the western DRC and one in South Kivu province in the east, foreigners were kidnapped by armed militia groups.  In South Kivu province, eight International Red Cross workers were kidnapped by a group called the Mai Mai Yakutumba, a group that controls its own territory in the region and was formed to resist Rwandan Hutu forces that fled into DR Congo after the 1994 genocide.  The region has been the scene of violent clashes that have resulted in the displacement of thousands of civilians in recent months. 

Travelers are frequently detained and questioned by poorly disciplined security forces at numerous official and unofficial roadblocks and border crossings throughout the country. Requests for bribes in such instances are extremely common, and security forces have occasionally injured or killed people who refuse to pay. In the last six months, the Embassy has recorded several instances in which U.S. citizens were detained illegally by government forces. The isolation of the area makes the provision of consular services difficult.

Kinshasa remains a critical crime threat area, and U.S. citizens continue to be the victims of serious crime, including armed robbery by groups posing as law enforcement.

Public health concerns pose a hazard to U.S. citizen travelers due to outbreaks of deadly viruses and other diseases, which can occur without warning and often are not rapidly reported by local health authorities. Information on personal protection for international travelers, including children, can be found at http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/.

Enforcement of aviation safety standards in the DRC is uneven, with frequent incidents and accidents. The U.S. Embassy has prohibited official travel by U.S. government employees and contractors on all DRC-owned and -operated commercial airlines due to safety and maintenance concerns. International flights on foreign-owned and operated carriers are not affected by this prohibition.

U.S. citizens should avoid all public demonstrations and areas where crowds have gathered, exercise caution, and closely monitor local and international news from reliable sources. Radio Okapi broadcasts in French on 103.5 FM at 0700, 0800, 1200, and 1800 and provides updates throughout the day.  English-language news can be found on BBC at 92.7 FM. In times of emergency, the Belgian Embassy operates a French-language radio broadcast system at FM 98.8. Changes in security conditions may occasionally restrict the travel of U.S. Mission personnel.

U.S. citizens who travel to or remain in the DRC despite this Travel Warning are strongly urged to register with the Embassy in Kinshasa or through the State Department’s travel registration web site at https://travelregistration.state.gov. By registering, U.S. citizens make it easier for the Embassy to contact them in case of emergency. The U.S. Embassy is located at 310 Avenue des Aviateurs; the Consular Section entrance is located on Avenue Dumi, opposite Saint Anne’s church. The Embassy’s telephone number, including for after-hours emergencies, is 243-81-225-5872; callers within the DRC should dial 081-225-5872.  All Embassy telephone numbers are cellular phones as landlines are unreliable. The Embassy web site is http://kinshasa.usembassy.gov/.

U.S. citizens should also consult the Department of State's Country Specific Information Sheet for the Democratic Republic of the Congo and the Worldwide Caution, both located on the Department of State's web site. Up-to-date information on safety and security is available toll-free at 1-888-407-4747 from within the United States and Canada, or at regular toll rates at 1-202-501-4444 for callers from other countries, from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).  

I am pretty excited!  It will be just like Congo the movie!  But better!


This picture has not been digitally altered since I had just removed the laser and diamonds from the gorilla's hands (thus I am happy).

The Rainy Season

Rwanda has a long rainy season from mid-February to mid-May and short rainy season in October and November.  The long rainy season came early this year and has rained generally everyday for a couple of hours a day (though maybe not continuously).  Thankfully when Lucy's mother was here last week didn't rain that much and if it did it was during the night.  I am used to seeing the rain roll in from the west out our kitchen window in Rosemark, but it is much more dramatic here.  Often as the rain approaches, 50% of your view can be cloudy blue skies and 50% can appear like a wall of water rolling off a hillside.  The picture below was taken from our back porch and you can see the rain moving in from the southwest.


the rain arrives it can last for five minutes or five hours and can really pour.  Since the most of the country is covered by a landscape ranging between hills and mountains, Rwanda has mastered ditch digging and has a truly impressive drainage system in place to deal with the heavy rainfalls.  This reduces not only landslides on the country's steep slopes (that are always to some extent tiered for agricultural purposes) but also the prevalence of standing water (the breeding ground for malaria-carrying Anopheles mosquitoes).  The photo below is on the road that leads to Akagera National Park in eastern Rwanda where you can see a pretty standard stone ditch.


The next picture is taken from on top of our guardhouse in Kigali (this is what you see when you walk out our gate).  You can see where the land has been cleared on the right for farming while the land to the left is still wild with a few banana trees.  This is a typical hillside rain water management chute, though they can be both steeper and longer in the more mountainous areas.  Keep in mind that all of this stonework is done by hand with all of the rocks being cut in the quarry using no system of standardization at all (and subsequently are chipped away on site until a rock fits the need).

This next picture was taken in northern Rwanda near the Ugandan border and shows some of the tiered agriculture on the hillsides.  The valleys that receive the runoff from the drainage system often grow tea, elephant grass (as seen in the foreground), and rice since they prosper in more swampy environments.


The last picture is me hanging out of a matatu on our way back from Lake Bunyonyi in southern Uganda with some of the landscape in the background.  This area is not as dramatic as western Rwanda but you get the idea.


On a related note, Memphis has been getting dumped on apparently the last few days and there is quite a bit of flooding throughout Shelby County (CA: Flooding Brings Chaos to Mid-South).  Do not fear, my family is safe!  The bridge pictured below is near our house and usually has about a 15-foot drop to the water (the stone wall you see is the barrier along the bridge).


And this is a cotton field...