Rwanda Coffee Now on Sale in the U.S.

The 2010 coffee crop from Rwanda is now on sale and two of the roasters have called out TechnoServe in their marketing efforts.
  • Intelligentsia Coffee: Zirikana, Rwanda: Kirezi - Intelligentsia is a high-end coffee roaster that has bought a significant amount of coffee from TechnoServe cooperatives in Rwanda.  The Kirezi cooperative that is highlighted in the coffee's "story" is a new group that received a ~$13K loan to finance a washing station because of the work that I am doing here.
  • Peet's Coffee and Tea: Uzuri African Blend - Peet's has been a key buyer of TechnoServe coffee in East Africa for many years and views the Coffee Initiative as a valuable partner in Rwanda and Tanzania.  This year's Uzuri blend has been released and the reviews are pretty solid (check at the bottom of the first link above).  The page above also includes links to a slideshow with another TechnoServe cooperative Abangakarushwa and a video that I've included below.  The employees in the slideshow that do the sorting and drying at coffee wet mills in Rwanda make 500 Rwandan Francs a day (~$0.84), a very good wage in rural areas where cash wages are virtually non-existent.


These types of stories are the best way to explain what the Coffee Initiative is all about...

Happy Thanksgiving to Everyone!

Lucy made delicious pumpkin pies, and we have just returned from a Thanksgiving feast (after work of course).  Lucy is cutting the desserts with some friends below.  We are sorry we cannot be with our friends and family in the U.S but have been thinking of everyone.  Have a wonderful Thanksgiving!


On a related note, I haven't gotten a lot of feedback on a certain issue since being in Tanzania so thought Thanksgiving gatherings might be a good time to survey the crowd.  This issue concerned me during the last election and continues to be in the news quite regularly.

What would you do if Sarah Palin became President?

Let me know what you find out!

Africa & Coffee Articles V

Another installment of things that interest me!

Africa:
  • NYTimes: In the Footsteps of the Museum's Gorillas (11/21/10) - Lucy found this interesting article linking the American Museum of Natrual History in New York to the Virunga Mountains in East Africa.  Apparently the scenes in the Hall of African Mammals are depictions of actual places from the 1920s and a curator from the museum is returning to the site where the gorillas scene originated.  Below is a picture from one of our visits to the Virungas last year with the same mountains from the museum behind us.  
  • WSJ: Banks Exit From Embassy Business (11/20/10) - Embassy banking is big business in Africa with so much aid money needing a home until it can be spent (or siphoned off to the government!).  Apparently in the U.S., the banking regulations have gotten so hairy with anti-money laundering rules that major banks are just walking away from embassy business.
  • WSJ: Putting Cap on Bad Juju Conjures Up a Good Business (11/19/10) - Welcome to Africa!  You should read this article if you want to begin to understand how challenging it is to get things done here.  Also, the effects of this ride on Lucy's juju are currently unknown (but her driver is ready for the long winter!).

Thanksgiving in Tanzania


Jon and I are going to a Thanksgiving potluck tomorrow evening. Tomorrow is not a school or work holiday for us, so we'll head over for dinner.

This is one of the three pumpkin pies I made to contribute to the party. We don't have a pie pan, so as you can see, I improvised. I used this recipe from King Arthur Flour for the filling and one from smittenkitchen.com (have I mentioned how much I like her recipes??) for the crust.

Because you can't buy canned pumpkin here, I roasted 2 pumpkins in the oven and then scooped out the insides and pureed them in our blender. The blender is a big development for us--last year I had to mash the pumpkin by hand with a potato masher. Then I added spices, cream, milk, eggs, sugar etc. to the pumpkin, poured the filling into the pie crust, baked it, and voila!

Please notice the very appropriate tablecloth. I bought it last weekend at the fabric market downtown. I was quite excited!

I am very thankful for all of my friends and family, both near and far. I'll be thinking of you tomorrow. Happy Thanksgiving!

Ozymandias


Ozymandias

by Percy Bysshe Shelley

I met a traveller from an antique land
Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert. Near them, on the sand,
Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown
And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
The hand that mocked them and the heart that fed.
And on the pedestal these words appear:
"My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare
The lone and level sands stretch far away.

In sixth grade, I was lucky enough to have Mrs. Taliaferro as my English teacher. Under her expert guidence, we studied and memorized this Shelley poem. So, when I found myself in Luxor, the Brearley girl in me couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit the statue that (supposedly) inspired the poem. My friend Ruth and I even had a dramatic reading of the poem while overlooking it.

This is taken from the opposite direction as the picture above. Here, you can see what remains of his head and torso.


While there are no "trunkless legs" to be seen, both of his feet remain. This is me standing on the one that you can see in the top picture. Imagine how big the statue once was!


Egypt

I rode a camel by the pyramids of Giza,


visited the "bent" pyramid in Dashur,

saw the world's oldest boat,

sailed the Nile in Luxor (on a somewhat newer boat),

wore a headscarf,


saw too many tombs and temples to count,

and so much more.

Egypt is amazing!


Cinnamon Rolls


Cinnamon rolls (and a Rwandan potholder). What more do you need on a day off from school? For those of you who are interested in making your own cinnamon rolls, I used a recipe from my favorite food blog, smittenkitchen.com. Happy Eid!


Africa & Coffee Articles IV

The latest installment of things relevant to our lives in Africa (sort of):
  • WSJ: African Brand Is Sweet on Obama (10/7/10) - Obama is all over Africa ("First Kenyan to be President of the United States").  The possibility of products with Obama are endless here.  Lucy has a lovely apron with Obama's face on it and had to stop me from buying these fashionable britches.
  • WSJ: Troops Pledged to Somalia (10/7/10) - Uganda will provide the physical bodies if someone else pays.  Museveni has been President of Uganda for 24 years and was able to remove any mention of term limits from the constitution in 2006.
  • WSJ: Catching Africa's Investment Bug Is Proving Contagious (10/6/10) - Yes, limited competition results in healthy margins, but can volatile exchange rates, corruption, political instability, and an unskilled labor force be overcome?  Cellular providers and breweries print money in Africa, but can other industries?
  • WSJ: When Togo Played Bahrain, the Whole Match Was a Fake (10/4/10) - Bahrain paid to fly the Togo national team to Bahrain for an exhibition match.  A team came but it wasn't the national team.  This story probably sounds ridiculous to Americans but doesn't seem odd to me after living in Africa. The pictures below were taking soccer games in Kigali.  The national stadium was a ten-minute walk from our house.


  • NYTimes: Frenzy of Rape in Congo Revails U.N. Weakness (10/3/10) - The stories that continue to come out of Congo are hard to imagine and quite disturbing.  This article reinforces what seems to status quo when it comes to the U.N. providing peacekeepers.  The video below shows the landscape of the area which is very similar to Rwanda.


2nd Avenue Construction in New York

So I wrote in April about what could have been my apartment in New York at 91st and 2nd Avenue (VolunteerExpat: Upper East Side Rat Infestation) and another article came out yesterday about the effects of the 2nd Avenue subway construction on local businesses (NYTimes: Subway Work on 2nd Avenue Hobbles Stores).  The picture included in the Times (below) actually shows what would have been my apartment (the row of windows on the second right above the word "Cottage").


Who knew I'd be moving soon enough to a dirt road in Rwanda...


Also, my lunch just arrived and it is tasty as always.  Goat, rice, spinach from the woman around the corner on the street.  I have this for lunch about four days a week.


Oh How I Miss Bacon

Bacon is delicious!  When I was a child the smell of bacon cooking at my grandmothers' houses used to get me out of bed.  The last bacon I had before returning to Africa was served at Tim and Christina's wedding in Lake Tahoe where dates were used as a vehicle for bacon consumption.  I can taste them now...


Well these signs are the closest thing I can really get to bacon these days ("Quality Meat Products!" is an untrue statement), and unfortunately they line the street outside our house.  So close...yet so far...


In conclusion, I disagree with this Wall Street Journal article (WSJ: The Bacon Backlash) claiming bacon is so 2009.  Obviously, those people haven't been to Africa recently.

Running with the Hash House Harriers

After Lucy's marathon a few years ago in San Diego (below), we have enjoyed running together a bit more when we get around to it.


One motivation to run is the Hash House Harriers, a running/social group with chapters in 1,251 cities in 183 countries.  We started participating this spring in Kigali and have participated in the Dar es Salaam "hash" every Monday night since we arrived.  There is typically a 35-55 minute run with the group (~50 people) meeting up along the way for "beer stops" and concluding at someone's house for supper and additional socializing.  Over the past few weeks we have made a few friends and Lucy even has two of her parents who regularly participate.

So far the first three weeks have all been on the Msasani Peninsula (where we and many expats live...see map on the right side of the blog of relevant spots in Tanzania), which is quite flat, but hypothetically the runs could take place anywhere someone wanted to plan a trail.  Most of the running has been east-west on dirt roads with connections on north-south paved roads, though it is quite circuitous in reality and would be quite easy to get lost given how every spot looks pretty much the same.  The Dar hash is quite a contrast to Kigali where many of the participants were Rwandan and we were running up and down swampy valleys around mud brick houses and through people's fields and cow pastures.

There are a few major runs each year spread around Tanzania (where fetching t-shirts are given out) and also regional  (some recently returned from one in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia) and international hashes (last year people from Rwanda went to Malaysia).  In two weeks is the 1,400 Dar hash so there is a weekend excursion involved where the group will travel to a house on south beach.  We may attend if our schedule permits.

On a related note, a couple of interesting articles on running that Rawson found on NPR:

Food in Dar Part 1

As many of you know, Jon and I like food. We like to grocery shop, cook, bake and eat, both at home and in restaurants. One of the most difficult things for us to adjust to in Kigali was the lack of restaurants and the lack of western groceries. During our time there, we struggled to purchase things that most Americans view as staples: cereal, skim or low fat milk, tomato sauce, cheese, crackers, granola bars, whole wheat bread etc. We also suffered through mediocre restaurant meals that were expensive, more often than not took 3 hours, and frequently ended with only some of the dishes that we'd ordered actually being delivered to our table.

In some ways, this was great. It forced us to realize how many packaged foods we tend to consume, to eat a lot of local fruits and vegetables, and to strengthen our cooking skills. It also forced Jon to like Indian food, since the two best restaurants in Kigali are Indian. This was a big victory for me, since I've always liked it, and have struggled to get Jon to enjoy it.

Given this background, it has been immediately obvious to us that one of many differences between Kigali and Dar is in the food scene. There are two grocery stores near our house (5-10 min walk), and two more about a 20 minute walk away. Together I think these stores have more Western foods than you can find in all of Kigali. This is partly because there is a much larger expat community here in Dar, so there is greater demand for imported and Western food. It is also partly due to geographical differences. Dar is on the water and is a major port, so things can be brought here fairly easily by boat. Kigali is landlocked and relatively far inland, and so everything is trucked there over land, usually across Kenya and Uganda, which is expensive and risky--the roads are bad and you often see overturned trucks by the side of the road that have been completely cleaned out by people from nearby villages.

In our recent trips to local grocery stores, we have found some exciting items, including delicious Irish butter, a variety of cheeses, and cookies that my mom likes:


We also saw the very same kind of cookies that a boy once memorably gave to Becca before a field hockey game:


And....drumroll please....Shreddies and Parmalat skim milk!


Shreddies are a kind of cereal that is a cross between Shredded Wheat and Chex. It is available in Australia (where I first had it), the UK, and Canada, but not in the US. I really like them, so I was VERY excited to find them at the grocery store near our house. Parmalat is hyper-pasteurized milk that actually tastes like milk (unlike some other brands that are available here and in Rwanda--one brand that I tried tastes like cow, rather than milk) and it comes in skim, 1.5% and whole. I have a soft spot for Parmalat in particular because that is what we drank when I was growing up in Hong Kong. My father is still the proud owner of a set of book ends that I made him as a Christmas present when I was in 1st or 2nd grade that are empty Parmalat boxes filled with sand and covered with marbleized paper.

Although Dar has a lot of exciting groceries that are imported from Europe and the US, it also has many East African staples that we're familiar with from Rwanda, including cassava and sorghum flours, powdered milk, and the every popular Pep-Tang, a tomato-ish sauce that resembles synthetic ketchup, and is often regrettably served with french fries (chips), rice and pasta.


And, last but not least, we have everyone's favorite "Fat Spread":

Pirates Love the Dark 'n' Stormy

I was introduced to the Dark 'n' Stormy a few years ago by Chris and Ben in Castine and was immediately hooked.  The ingredients (ginger beer, black rum, lime, and ice) are quite simple but can be hard to find in sustainable quantities and quality.  Particularly difficult to source are a really spicy ginger beer and a black rum so terrible you can picture the only people drinking it neat are pirates (NYTimes: "as dark as motor oil and with a distinctively charred flavor").  Well, times have changed and the Dark 'n' Stormy is alive and kicking in Tanzania.


As I said the extra spicy ginger beer is the key and Tanzania has a product called Stoney Tangawizi that fits the bill.  Tangawizi is the Swahili word for ginger and the product is made by Coca-Cola in East Africa (though not Rwanda).  It is probably one of those drinks I tried at The World of Coca-Cola tasting room as a child and couldn't imagine someone actually drinking it.  Well, I was wrong.  It is delicious!

There is no Gosling's Black Seal available in the Duty Free of any of the five airports I have been in of late (though my guy at Duty Free in Kigali says he will order some and have it by November) so Bacardi Black was substituted (the Captain Morgan's Black was terrible).  Note: Like with a "Bacardi & Coke" (I learned this in Puerto Rico), Gosling's has trademarked "Dark 'n' Stormy" so if someone orders one in a bar it is required that only Gosling's Black Seal is used (NYTimes: The Right Stuff (by Law)).

Limes/green lemons are readily available in the markets and ice is being made in a very nice refrigerator with ice cube trays in our new apartment.

I imagine I am the only person having the Dark 'n' Stormy in Tanzania, but you should try them at home!  Lime optional, enjoyment mandatory!

This past Sunday was our first together in Tanzania. It was sunny and warm and breezy and we spent much of the day unpacking. We’re finally beginning to feel settled in our house.

In honor of it being Sunday, we started reading a book called Strength for the Journey by Peter J. Gomes. Mr. Gomes is the minister of The Memorial Church at Harvard and Strength for the Journey is a collection of his sermons. Below is the cover of the book.


We’re planning to start at the beginning of the book and read through it, one sermon per Sunday. Conveniently, there are sermons for different liturgical seasons and holidays, including Advent, Christmas, Easter, Thanksgiving etc., so when we get to those times of year, we’ll skip to the corresponding sermons.

We enjoyed reading the first sermon, entitled “Abundance: Surplus and Substance” aloud to each other and then discussing it. The sermon is based on Luke 21:4, which in the King James Version reads “For all these have of their abundance cast in unto the offerings of God; but she of her penury hath cast in all the living that she had.” Mr. Gomes’ sermon is thus about giving, and he encourages the reader to consider “giving not in proportion to what you have, but in proportion to what you have been given.” A quote from Churchill that Mr. Gomes includes struck me in particular. Churchill said, “we make a living by what we save, but we make a life by what we give.” These seem like very relevant ideas to our new life in Tanzania, where it is abundantly clear that we have been given so much more than so many people in the world. This is something that many people (including us) who live in developed countries often forget, and I think it is very important to try to remember and be grateful for all that we have.

Maybe we’ll find a church that we like here in Dar, but in the meantime we’re going to experiment with having our own kind of church.

**A special thank you to Becca who introduced me to Mr. Gomes’ preaching and gave me this book a number of years ago. Yet another wonderful gift from my big sister!

Africa & Coffee Articles III

Latest installment of articles relevant to our lives in Africa:
  • Rwanda New Times: School Girls Held Over Marijuana (9/9/10) - This hard hitting news in the Rwandan national newspaper is too good to pass up: "In a bizarre turn of events, Salim Sintukamazina, a man Police had always suspected of dealing in the drug was shot dead after Police stormed his house following a tip off from an informer on Tuesday night."  Umm...not sure how bizarre it is?
Coffee:
  • WSJ: Is It Time to Start Hoarding Coffee Beans? (9/8/10) - I regularly read the ROI column in the WSJ anyway and this weeks happens to be on the soaring price of green coffee.  Probably not a real investment opportunity for the casual investor (and most of the upside has likely been missed), but the volatility in coffee prices is just another factor that has to be dealt with by the Coffee Initiative.
  • WSJ: Coffee Futures Are Near a 13-Year High (8/30/10) - I think in the last few days this high has been blown away.  High prices are sometimes good and sometimes bad for the Coffee Initiatives cooperatives.
  • WSJ: Nestle Plans Ground Attack Over Coffee Beans (8/26/10) - Roasters (like Starbucks and Nestle) are doing more and more to solidify their coffee supply chain, especially as prices continue to skyrocket.  Some of the concepts described in this article are similar to what the TechnoServe Coffee Initiative does in East Africa.
  • NYTimes: A Coffee Conundrum (8/3/10) - Green Mountain Coffee generates more than 80% of its revenue from its single-use K-Cups (it has a virtual global monopoly).  It is exploring how to make these K-Cups more eco-friendly.
This is ripe coffee cherry at a TNS cooperative in southwestern Rwanda right before it goes into the wet mill (aka "pulper").

Our New Home

We finally moved into our new apartment last night. Thank goodness! I do not like being unsettled and not having a home was beginning to wear on me. However, it was good practice as I am striving to be more patient and better at dealing with the unexpected. This is something that Jon and I have both been working on over the past year, and I think that Jon especially has made a lot of progress with maintaining a zen-attitude about the the daily challenges of life in Rwanda, and now Tanzania.

And now for the grand tour. First, the driveway into our compound. This picture is taken from our parking lot, looking back at the street. You can see our building on the left side of the photo. We are living on the first floor of an apartment building this year.



The front door opens into the living room/dining room. The door that you see on the left hand side of the dining area goes to the kitchen. As you can see, the living room doesn't look very lived in, but hopefully we'll be able to do something about that.





This is the kitchen. Since I like to spend time cooking and baking in the kitchen, I am excited that it is quite open and light-filled.



I am especially excited about the nice large refrigerator. This fridge may not look large by American standards, but it is much larger and newer than the one we had in Rwanda.

And this is our bedroom. As you can see, we have not yet unpacked or hung up our mosquito net (see previous post). You might notice that the air conditioner is in a state of disrepair. We were initially a bit concerned about that, but it is not very hot yet in Dar (80 and breezy most days, cooler at night) so we are perfectly content to use the ceiling fan for now.



Karibu nyumbani kwetu! (That means "Welcome to our home" in Swahili.)

The Land of Mosquitos

Sadly, we have left the nearly mosquito-free Land of A Thousand Hills and have plunged into the thick of the Land of Mosquitos here in Tanzania.

You can see from the picture of my room at the Swiss Garden Hotel that the Tanzanians take their mosquito netting seriously. For those of you who are not well acquainted with bed nets, this net is especially nice because it is hung from a frame that is the same size as the bed, rather than from a single point in the ceiling, with a small hoop to stretch it out. This means that the sides of the net go straight up and down, instead of slanting inward and impeding on your sleeping space.

Hopefully when Jon and I move into our apartment we'll be able to rig up a similarly impressive contraption.

Our New City



Here you can see part of downtown Dar es Salaam, with the Indian Ocean in foreground. It looks so teeny from this picture, but it is really quite bustling.

This is our third ocean in a month: the Atlantic in Castine, the Pacific in San Francisco, and now the Indian in Dar. Hopefully we'll get to do a lot of (bilharzia-free) swimming and sailing this year.

A new city. A new adventure. Jon arrives from Kigali today and we can't wait to get started!

Successful Return to Africa

After spending an incredible summer in the U.S. visiting friends and family, Lucy and I left New York at 6:30pm on September 1st for our 30 hour return trip to Africa.  Between our reunions, weddings, and book stamping adventures this summer, we had accumulated quite a bit of stuff to take back with us including a home theater projector, camera, 5lbs bag of chocolate chips, and two canisters of garlic salt, among other things.  We successfully packed all of the stuff going back with us into three checked bags (we had six last year) and four carry-ons.

We landed in Amsterdam at 8:00am local time on September 2nd with a layover just long enough to buy a reasonable supply of duty free cheese (remember: no cheese in Africa), pastries, and chocolate and take in a riveting art collection from the Rijksmuseum on Dutch Cows.


In Amsterdam we went our separate ways with Lucy flying straight to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania (our new home) and me flying to Nairobi and on to Kigali to pick up our stuff that we had left there.  Lucy arrived at 10:30pm local time on September 2nd and settled in at the Swiss Garden Hotel, a bed and breakfast where she had stayed when she first arrived in Dar in January 2006.  I arrived in Kigali at 2:10am local time on September 3rd and am staying at a friend's house where I am staying until I head to Dar sometime this week.


All in all, a stress free trip back, minus almost missing our flight out of New York (who knew it took two hours to get to JFK on a Wednesday afternoon!).  Once again KLM was a pleasure to fly with good food, free drinks, and plenty of entertainment (I watched six movies, Lucy slept).  They also seem to love America!

Today is I think what is known as a Lazy Sunday and I am catching up on email and other things I have been meaning to do.  Since arriving in Kigali, I have met up with a handful of friends, checked in at the Technoserve office, ran with the Kigali Hash House Harriers, and gone to see our seamstresses at Kimironko (they hemmed all my new pants and fixed all my old ones that were ripping for ~$8.00), among other things.


Tomorrow is the Presidential Inauguration in the National Stadium right by our house so that means the whole country will be shut down and people will be celebrating in the streets.  Apparently it hasn't rained since we left but there was a bit of a downpour today so the short rains must be starting.

America! IV

In honor of our imminent departure for Africa, I present the fourth installment of America!



America, see you next year!