I Went, I Saw, I Conquered

Two weeks ago, I was in the Democratic Republic of Congo waking up at the edge of the crater of a 11,385 foot active volcano.  After a five hour hike literally straight up the Nyiragongo Volcano (switchback trails haven't found their way to Africa yet) through first jungles then volcanic pumice covering about 5000 feet of vertical climb, I reached the top of the volcano and its active lava lake.  Tents were set up right on the edge of the crater and I settled in for the night to watch the lave lake spew sulfurous gas, gurgle explosive lava, and emit enough heat to warm me from less than half a mile away.  I don't know of any other place in the world where you can do this and the picture below pretty much sums up the experience.

The town of Goma in the DRC is directly over the border from Giseyni, the largest city in northwestern Rwanda, and on the northern shores of Lake Kivu.  Congo and Goma itself receive a lot of attention from the international press for a variety of reasons including the countries rich mineral deposits and the seemingly unchecked rebels that exploit these minerals while raping and pillaging everyone and everything that stands in their way.  Eastern Congo also has many refugees from the Rwandan genocide more than 15 years ago that occasionally add fuel to the rebels fire.  For this reason the park that contains Nyiragongo has been closed for nearly two years and only reopened in March 2010 for tourists to visit (See picture below for bullet holes in national park sign).

Another concerning factor is that Nyiragongo is in fact an active volcano and has had two major eruptions in the last 30 years or so.  In January 2002, the volcano erupted, essentially repaved the entire city of Goma and furthering the despair of its 400,000 inhabitants (NYTimes: Volcano's Lava Engulfs a Congo Town & NYTimes: Warily, Residents Return to Lava-Scarred Congo City).  While the picture below may look staged, it in fact was not as the child in the picture just happened to be rummaging around in the lava flow that wiped out the Catholic Church in Goma.

So as you can tell, Congo is a pretty exciting place and climbing the volcano truly was the experience of a lifetime.  I will run through some picture highlights below but also uploaded a bunch of pictures from the trip.

Outskirts of Goma town with Nyiragongo in the background.  Note people on the right carrying bags of lava rocks to be used for building houses and fences.  It is pretty much the only building material available locally.  The right side of the picture is sharp lava rocks from the lava flow that have never been smoothed over (like on the left side of the picture.

About halfway up the mountain...

This type of volcanic surface is pretty much what you find the entire way.  My hiking boots were purchased in Nashville when I was in 8th grade.

A break with my porter...

About halfway up...

See the steam vents in the background at one of the rest stops...also note our guards...

Peak covered in clouds...

Getting higher...

Landscape is changing...

That is my porter on the last stretch...

Moonscape...

Summit...

Lava lake...

Sunset blocked by sulphuric gas...

My tent with my porter on the edge of the crater...

Lava lake at night...

Full moon and clear night...

Next morning...

On the way back down...

Other links on the volcano that may be of interest:

• NYTimes: Some Congolese See Hope in a Caldron of Liquid Fire: Written in September 2008 before the latest closure of the park but is pretty telling of the experience
• Guardian: Tourists visit the Nyiragongo volcano in Congo: Some action footage of the hike and lava churning

Other links on Congo that may be of interest:

• NYTimes: Orphaned, Raped and Ignored: The town in the dateline is just across Lake Kivu from Kibuye in Rwanda where we traveled on weekends occasionally.
• NYTimes: From 'Oprah' to Building a Sisterhood in Congo: Bukavu, where this article was written, is the Congo southern Lake Kivu border town with Cyangugu in Rwanda.  I was there ten days ago visiting one of TechnoServe's coffee service providers and some of the cooperatives.
• NYTimes: The World Capital of Killing: Another article on the on-going wars from Bukavu.
• NYTimes: Rwanda Stirs Deadly Brew of Troubles in Congo: An older article on Rwanda's influence in eastern Congo but still extremely relevant today.

America! II

This amazing commercial just aired prior to the U.S. vs. England World Cup game.

So I am back in the U.S.!  After a night in New York (Shake Shack was delicious!) and a night in Boston, I am settled in Martha's Vineyard for a week with some friends from college.  America is great!

Roundup

My father loves Roundup.  A gift of Roundup makes him ever so happy.  While my father's love of Roundup is a result of his desire to keep our gardens free of weeds, this article (WSJ: Superweed Outbreak Triggers Arms Race) focuses on large farm usage of herbicides and discuses yet another challenge in operating a successful single-family farm.  Modern farming is very expensive and quite risky!

The first season of daffodils in the new raised beds outside our kitchen window.

Same field behind first picture with the cotton in bloom last fall.

Amazing how plants and animals adapt to deal with whatever humans throw at them.  Science!

My First Earthquake

Sitting at my desk, I could feel my body shaking and my Nalgene next to me has a fluctuating water level.  Very exciting!  I've been told there have been a few since we have been here but this was the first I really felt.

On that note, I am planning to climb the Nyiragongo Volcano in Congo this weekend because it is awesome.  Check out this blog entry on another TechnoServe person's blog about his trip.  Sounds pretty X-treme (Mountain Dew Code Red!)

Plan is to survive!

Also, looks like I will be headed back to the U.S. around June 8 with a pretty hectic summer schedule before returning to Africa in September.  Lucy is leaving at the end of June once the school year finishes.

Movie Watching

It seems I can no longer afford to see movies in New York (WSJ: Movie Tickets Reach the $20 Mark) but I do hope to catch up this summer with NetFlix.

My parents, Becca, and Lucy's friend Kate have sent us a bunch of movies and tv shows and we have been slowing chipping away at them.  We have watched all of the Gossip Girl and Glee that has been released and I am working on 24 right now (my dad sent me the entire series).  Last night we watched Harold & Kumar Go to White Castle so that made me pretty hungry.

Mostly we watch them on our computers or we take the DVD player from the Dairy VolCon house (though region 2 coded so it doesn't play most movies that we have) to put it up on our small TV (that has no channels).  For a while we were able to borrow a projector from the office that we could hook up to our computer and broadcast onto the wall in our living room.

This, combined with some portable Chill Pill speakers that Morgan recommended to me, made for excellent movie watching.  We even had cable TV for a bit so we could broadcast the super bowl and the olympics up on the wall.

So for next year I am in the market for a projector similar to the one we have in the office (though potentially not as fancy) and am hoping someone can help me select one.  Any thoughts on this business is much appreciated.

Germs Are Good For You

Before we moved here we did quite a bit of research on what vaccines we needed and which medicines to bring with us so we could be prepared for just about any situation.  We were vaccinated for Hepatitis A, Meningitis, Typhoid, and Yellow Fever and brought a whole medicine cabinet with us (thank you Lee!).  Once here, we decided not to take any anti-malarials (malarone, larium, doxycycline) and generally pack a few doses worth of medicine to deal with amoebas, tapeworm, allergic reactions, etc. when we travel. We also carry hand sanitizer every day in case we are feeling particularly dirty (though Lucy is more diligent with it than I am).

Thankfully our medical record has been pretty good here as we have only had a handful of bouts with stomach issues (me more so than Lucy since I tend to venture into the huge racks of roasted meat more often or Nyama Choma as they say in Kenya) and nothing that required more than 48 hours of misery, dozens of Tums, and an occasional Cipro. Lucy also had an allergic reaction to something (craw daddies maybe?) in Uganda one weekend but that settled down after a bit.

More impressively, Lucy's perpetual runny nose and congestion has been virtually non-existent here, largely because her students are not as sickly as they were in Harlem, we are getting more sleep than we used to, and it just isn't cold here. Considering how "unclean" everything is here (quality control on the dish cleaning is particularly poor and to say that dirt is prevalent is not doing it justice...oh yeah, they only have leaded fuel here), it is quite remarkable that this has been one of our healthiest years on record.

That being said, pretty much everyone we know here who travels back to the U.S. gets a cold/flu for the first two weeks back. We will have to see if we can avoid this fate.

An article in the WSJ (WSJ: Can Dirt Do a Little Good?) sparked me writing about our medical record since it discusses some studies about the prevalence of different medical issues in the developed and developing world.  Pretty interesting stuff...

Also, Lucy cuts my hair here every few months.  The clippers I brought with me met their end around Christmas (they were at least 10 years old) but thankfully a friend was able to bring me a new set (with new features!).  Lucy does an excellent job and is becoming quite the stylist.  She also usually has some help from guest advisors like our guard Frank.

America!

Yeah!

Laserlike Focus

The phrase "laserlike focus" is stupid and people should stop using it.  Unless you are a mountain gorilla in Congo, you have probably never seen a laser!  Every time I hear it or read it I cringe!  It adds nothing!  So stop using it!  From NYTimes: Charter Schools' New Cheerleaders: Financiers:

"Wall Street has always put its money where its interests and beliefs lie. But it is far less common that so many financial heavyweights would adopt a social cause like charter schools and advance it with a laserlike focus in the political realm."

And oh yeah, while I am letting it out, New York Times, I don't think this is a new phenomenom on the charter school scene (NYTimes: Despite Push, Success at Charter Schools Is Mixed).

Congo Here We Come

We are going to see the gorillas again in a few weeks, and I want to go to Goma in the Democratic Republic of the Congo for a bit so I am looking into what kind of visa I need to get.  Naturally I can't find much (probably since I don't need much of one) but I have found this lovely message from the Warden at the U.S. Embassy in Kigali and received the following email on April 22, 2010:

The Department of State warns U.S. citizens of the risks of traveling to the Democratic Republic of the Congo (Congo-Kinshasa). This notice replaces the Travel Warning dated September 1, 2009 to reflect continued instability in North Kivu province and the surrounding area, the ongoing risk of possible unannounced flare-ups of violence in other parts of the country, and the critical crime threat in Kinshasa. 

Government soldiers, as well as rebel fighters, remain a security concern. These armed groups -- located especially in North Kivu, South Kivu, Orientale, and Bas-Congo provinces, as well as the northern part of Katanga province -- are known to pillage, steal vehicles, kidnap, rape, kill, and carry out military or paramilitary operations in which civilians are indiscriminately targeted.

In two separate incidents in early April 2010, one in Equateur province in the western DRC and one in South Kivu province in the east, foreigners were kidnapped by armed militia groups.  In South Kivu province, eight International Red Cross workers were kidnapped by a group called the Mai Mai Yakutumba, a group that controls its own territory in the region and was formed to resist Rwandan Hutu forces that fled into DR Congo after the 1994 genocide.  The region has been the scene of violent clashes that have resulted in the displacement of thousands of civilians in recent months. 

Travelers are frequently detained and questioned by poorly disciplined security forces at numerous official and unofficial roadblocks and border crossings throughout the country. Requests for bribes in such instances are extremely common, and security forces have occasionally injured or killed people who refuse to pay. In the last six months, the Embassy has recorded several instances in which U.S. citizens were detained illegally by government forces. The isolation of the area makes the provision of consular services difficult.

Kinshasa remains a critical crime threat area, and U.S. citizens continue to be the victims of serious crime, including armed robbery by groups posing as law enforcement.

Public health concerns pose a hazard to U.S. citizen travelers due to outbreaks of deadly viruses and other diseases, which can occur without warning and often are not rapidly reported by local health authorities. Information on personal protection for international travelers, including children, can be found at http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/.

Enforcement of aviation safety standards in the DRC is uneven, with frequent incidents and accidents. The U.S. Embassy has prohibited official travel by U.S. government employees and contractors on all DRC-owned and -operated commercial airlines due to safety and maintenance concerns. International flights on foreign-owned and operated carriers are not affected by this prohibition.

U.S. citizens should avoid all public demonstrations and areas where crowds have gathered, exercise caution, and closely monitor local and international news from reliable sources. Radio Okapi broadcasts in French on 103.5 FM at 0700, 0800, 1200, and 1800 and provides updates throughout the day.  English-language news can be found on BBC at 92.7 FM. In times of emergency, the Belgian Embassy operates a French-language radio broadcast system at FM 98.8. Changes in security conditions may occasionally restrict the travel of U.S. Mission personnel.

U.S. citizens who travel to or remain in the DRC despite this Travel Warning are strongly urged to register with the Embassy in Kinshasa or through the State Department’s travel registration web site at https://travelregistration.state.gov. By registering, U.S. citizens make it easier for the Embassy to contact them in case of emergency. The U.S. Embassy is located at 310 Avenue des Aviateurs; the Consular Section entrance is located on Avenue Dumi, opposite Saint Anne’s church. The Embassy’s telephone number, including for after-hours emergencies, is 243-81-225-5872; callers within the DRC should dial 081-225-5872.  All Embassy telephone numbers are cellular phones as landlines are unreliable. The Embassy web site is http://kinshasa.usembassy.gov/.

U.S. citizens should also consult the Department of State's Country Specific Information Sheet for the Democratic Republic of the Congo and the Worldwide Caution, both located on the Department of State's web site. Up-to-date information on safety and security is available toll-free at 1-888-407-4747 from within the United States and Canada, or at regular toll rates at 1-202-501-4444 for callers from other countries, from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).  

I am pretty excited!  It will be just like Congo the movie!  But better!

This picture has not been digitally altered since I had just removed the laser and diamonds from the gorilla's hands (thus I am happy).

The Old ERB Test

Thought this article (NYTimes: Private School Screening Test Loses Some Clout) on some private schools no longer using the ERB as an entrance exam was interesting since I took the test three times in four years (Spring 1995 at MBA to move from Ensworth to MBA; Summer 1997 at ETS testing site in Evanston to move to Chicago; Spring 1999 at Parker in Chicago to move to Memphis).  While the New York City private school world is a different beast  in terms of private school competitiveness, every school only has so many spots and this would eliminate another differentiating factor.  I am not sure making admissions more subjective is the best idea.

Interesting Articles on Africa and Other Topics Relevant To Me!

Below are a bunch of articles on Africa that may be of interest:

• NYTimes: Winning the Worm War (4/28/10) - This Kristof Op-Ed hits on topics related to my post Polio Eradication and General Development Questions.  Can a development project succeed without full buy-in and participation from those it is meant to affect?
• NYTimes: More American Expatriates Give Up Citizenship (4/25/10) - Americans are tired of paying taxes to the U.S. when they haven't lived there in 20 years.  And the Patriot Act has caused banks to close bank accounts that do not have a verified U.S. mailing address.  So people are increasingly handing over their U.S. passports.
• NYTimes: Pardon My French (4/21/10) - The French continue to worry about their language becoming extinct...and seem to have forgotten about all the people in Africa that have their own francophone culture (like Rwanda!).
• NYTimes: With Flights Grounded, Kenya's Produce Wilts (4/19/10) - The volcano in Iceland caused the Kenyan horticulture industry (the country's top foreign exchange earner) to come to a halt as none of the produce and flowers were able to be flown to Europe. 
• NYTimes: Africa Reboots (4/17/10) - Bono kind of rambles on about the side of Africa he sees when he is here.  Overly optimistic from where I sit but still the same theme as my post Polio Eradication and General Development Question. 
• NYTimes: Zimbabwe's Accidental Triumph (4/14/10) - Somehow the people of Zimbabwe seem to be overcoming the racial divide that is encouraged by their government.  While certainly not in the same ballpark, I am often reminded of the political/racial climate in some parts of the U.S. (including Memphis) when reading about what has happened in Zimbabwe.
• WSJ: Bushmeat Presents Latest Food Scare (4/14/10) - Health dangers in the rise of bushmeat  (bats, monkeys, rodents, wildebeests,etc.) imported to the United States from Africa.  Delicious!  I once asked one of the park rangers if you could eat the baboons since they look quite meaty, and after thinking about it for a minute he said: "No I don't think so.  Too close to us."
• NYTimes: Banks Making Big Profits From Tiny Loans (4/13/10) - Microfinance has revolutionized the lending environment for the world's most impoverished but has also been adopted by organizations that may lack the social benefit goals of traditional microcredit programs.  When implemented appropriately, microfinance initiatives can have an amazing effect on peoples' lives since they address many of the challenges involved with accessing capital in the developing world (Issuing a lot of small loans to people who live and work in volatile environments and industries with few/no assets and bad/no credit history in the developing world is very expensive, risky, and not very profitable for traditional financial institutions).  Unfortunately, it seems some microfinance entities do not always have the best interests of the borrower in mind.
• WSJ: On This Safari, the Exotic Lure Is the American Black Panther (4/13/10) - An exiled leader of the Black Panther Party hosts visitors at his home near Arusha, Tanzania.
• NYTimes: Young Superheroes in a Hut (4/10/10) - Kristof Op-Ed (he loves the developing world!) on Africa having initiative and a desire to work hard but lacking honest leadership 
• NYTimes: Uganda Enlists Former Rebels to End War (4/10/10) - Africa has more than its fair share of roaming militia groups, and Congo is perennially the hub supporting a good bit of the conflict in our neighborhood.  Well apparently the Ugandan Army has permission to go hunting for the Lord's Resistance Army across the region.
• NYTimes: Postcard from Zimbabwe (4/7/10) - Kristof Op-Ed on the downfall of a once prosperous post-colonial Zimbabwe.
• NYTimes: Africa's Drug Problem (4/5/10) - As the U.S. and Europe have cracked down on drug trafficking from South America, West Africa has become a hub for the industry (despite there being few users).  Hits home again that the support of the developed can only go so far to fix some of the issues in Africa.  It requires the commitment of local people and an honest government too.
• WSJ: Airlines Swoop In on Growing African Market (3/23/10) - Airline travel in Africa is extremely expensive since it seems to cater exclusively to C-level business travelers, tourists, and aid workers.  Pricing seems to have limited science behind it as most flight are between 20% and 60% full yet you can't fly anywhere for less than $300.  For example, any day of the week, no matter the actual demand, Kigali-Naroibi is ~$450, Kigali-Addis Ababa is ~820, and Kigali-Dar es Salaam is $700.  You can fly to Cape Town for the World Cup this summer from New York for about the same price I would pay from Kigali.

Other links that are interesting:

• WSJ: As Stamps Lose Hold on Hobbyists, These Philatelists Push the Envelope (4/22/10) - As the son of a philatelist and attendee of the 2006 World Philatelic Exhibition in Washington D.C., I enjoyed this article on stamp collecting.

And here is a picture of Lucy's new quilt that she had made at our favorite craft cooperative in Kigali.  Let us know if there are any crafts in particular that you would like us to bring back.

When U.S. Dollars Expire...

The U.S. Dollar is still the currency of choice across Africa with $50 and $100 bills receiving the best exchange rates and $20 and $10 receiving a 5-10% discount.  There is also discount for older series bills.  Apparently this is related to counterfeit bills linked to North Korea floating around for older series.  Lucy and I both receive our compensation with dollar-denominated checks that we cash (and receive dollars) at our organizations' respective banks.  We then either deposit the cash into a dollar-denominated account at Lucy's bank, hold on to it for dollar cash expenditures we have in the future, or exchange those often crisp 2006 Series $100 bills for Rwandan Francs (Typically ~RWF575 per $1).  In Rwanda, bills printed before 2003 are "expired" or "finished" (You can imagine how surprising it is when you are told that your money is no longer good when of course it is legitimate currency in the United States).  


There aren't really functional ATMs in Rwanda for expats unless you want to take a cash advance off your debit or credit card and that often involves dealing with bank branch management (two hour minimum commitment).  There are ATMs at most local banks but they only dispense RWF to those that have RWF accounts at that bank (they don't convert their own dollar accounts so that the ATM can spit out RWF), and our friends here who decided to get RWF accounts have never received ATM cards (some have waited three years).  Some regional banks like EcoBank and the Kenya Commercial Bank have recently entered Rwanda and could potentially expand the current ATM situation.  When we are traveling in other East African countries, we have been able to use my Bank of America debit card to draw money out of Barclays' ATMs (except in Ethiopia where foreign banks are banned from operating).  There is a relationship between BofA and Barclays that allows me to withdraw the local currency at that day's spot rate with no additional fee the same way I would withdraw dollars out of a BofA ATM machine in the U.S.  This makes the whole process much safer since we don't have to carry around wads of $100 and quite cost effective with no additional foreign transaction or currency exchange fees.


Many hotels, restaurants, safari companies, etc. only accept dollars (so some dollars do have to be carried when travelling), yet never have change in dollars  For example, U.S. citizens are required to purchase a $25 single-entry visas every time they travel to Kenya, but if you attempt to pay $30 (one $20, one $10) and expect change they will claim that they are not a bank and cannot provide you change.  Or the change they do have is an "expired bill" from say 1996 in the smallest divisible denominations possible (I was due $50 change last week and received four $10 bills from 2001 and RWF570).  Thus, we pawn off small denominations and old bills as quickly as possible to whomever will take them and maintain a steady supply of 2006 Series $100 notes (which of course I have never used and rarely seen in the U.S.)


What inspired me to write all of this was the U.S. Treasury's announcement last week that they are releasing a new ultra high-tech $100 bill in February 2011 and an excellent article outlining some of the history of counterfeiting money (WSJ: Outfoxing the Counterfeiters).  

I anticipate this really throwing Africa for a loop.

Are the Memphis Grizzlies Really in the NBA?

I came across an article this week on the Grizzlies backup center Hamed Haddadi, the NBA's only player from Iran, in the Tehran Times (Tehran Times: NBA's Haddadi on vacation in Iran).  This picture makes me wonder how the Grizzlies expect to be taken seriously (that is Haddadi in the middle):

This guy is #2 on the Grizzlies depth chart at Center after last year's first-round draft pick Hasheem Thabeet (randomly from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania where I may be moving next year) was a total bust in his first year.  The NBA is more and more international these days, but the Grizzlies may have taken it too far with this guy...

Polio Eradication and General Development Questions

I recently posted about the work my brother does for the CDC (Shout Out to the Big Brother) and the Gates Foundation announcing a new initiative on agri-business financing (Food Security and Agri-Business Financing Program from Gates Foundation) and there happens to have been an article last week in the Wall Street Journal related to both of those posts (WSJ: Gates Rethinks His War on Polio).  The article brings up an interesting discussion about the best approach to improving the health of both the developing world and the global population and other questions about the role and effectiveness of international aid in the developing world.

As I had mentioned before one of the three Gates Foundation focus areas is Global Health and the foundation has put up quite a bit of money to eradicate polio.  This is known as a "vertical" approach where a single disease with dramatic symptoms is honed in on with the hopes of dramatically reducing its frequency worldwide and subsequently improving global health (like smallpox was eradicated worldwide in 1979).  Vertical approaches tend to get quite a bit more publicity since they are tangible and generally well-known diseases like HIV/AIDS, cancer, malaria, etc.  On the other hand, "horizontal" approaches are focused on general improvements in the broader healthcare systems of the world and may include water, hygiene, sanitation, access to medicine and medical care, etc.  In the developed world, much of the healthcare infrastructure like clean water sources, hospitals, and availability of medicines is already in place so horizontal policies tend to receive less attention (ignoring the recent major healthcare overhaul in the U.S.).  In the developing world, the existing healthcare systems can be quite shoddy (at best) and there is much more interest in projects that address more basic needs like digging wells to improve the water supply or building clinics to increase availability.

While eradicating polio worldwide is certainly something the international community should continue to pursue (especially when we are so close), it does make you wonder if those resources (~$8.2B over the last two decades) could have been better utilized by addressing the most basic of healthcare needs of the developing world (currently, polio is essentially just a disease of the developing world) like ensuring a clean water supply or improving systems to provide vaccines and medicines.  When Lee returned from his first trip to South Africa during his residency, I remember him telling me that much of his time was spent diagnosing and treating diseases that he had rarely (or never) spent much time with in the U.S. because they were essentially non-existent at home.  While I don't remember exactly what he was treating and imagine some of it was TB and HIV/AIDS related, I would also guess many of the issues were related to broader healthcare issues in South Africa like malnutrition, unsafe drinking water, and lack of preventative medicine.  Of course the effects of vertical and horizontal approaches do cross over (like in the case of malaria-preventing bed nets), but it does make you wonder what is the best way to affect change in the livelihoods of those in the developing world.

Broadly speaking, international aid organizations and non-governmental organizations ("NGOs") have thousands of projects around the developed and developing world with the general goal of improving peoples' lives.  It could be anything from digging wells to financing education to teaching them to produce better products that generate more income (like me!).  Programs might include operating a soup kitchen or training people in new skills or providing temporary financial assistance or housing.  Every project is established with good intentions (one would assume) and strives to further its goals in often challenging environments.  At the same time, aid organizations are put (or put themselves) in the awkward position where in order for a project to succeed, the ideals, work ethic, goals, etc. of the organization often must be embraced by (or imposed on) the people that the project is trying to effect.

This brings up some questions about the best way to provide assistance to those in need and the role of aid organizations in the developing world:

• Which projects have the greatest impact on the livelihoods of the people?
• Do the people impacted by these projects really want the projects in the first place?
• What social, political, logistical, and financial challenges exist locally that could impact the project's success?
• In the developing world, is it outsiders' place to alter societal social norms for the assumed betterment of society?  
• Should the developed world force its perception of success on those who may be both poor and happy?

While there are no answers to these questions, there is a constant debate about what type of aid is the most effective as there are a variety of theories on how to get the most bang for your development buck.  I am far from an expert on this whole discussion but am very happy that I have had the opportunity to better understand it by living in East Africa.

On a side note since malaria in the developing world is a hot topic, I recently wrote about the heavy rains during the Rwandan rainy season and the impressive rain water management system that has been built here.  This remarkable drainage system, along with the generally high elevation of the country, has dramatically reduced the prevalence of malaria, especially when compared to neighboring countries.  There isn't that much standing water in Rwanda and it can get quite cool here (low 50s) so the environment is just not that conducive to supporting a large population of Anopheles mosquitoes that carry malaria.  This is why Lucy and I do not take any malaria prophylaxis like malarone, lariam, or doxycycline when in Rwanda (though we did take it on our recent trip to Zanzibar).  As of now we are still malaria free!

The Rainy Season

Rwanda has a long rainy season from mid-February to mid-May and short rainy season in October and November.  The long rainy season came early this year and has rained generally everyday for a couple of hours a day (though maybe not continuously).  Thankfully when Lucy's mother was here last week didn't rain that much and if it did it was during the night.  I am used to seeing the rain roll in from the west out our kitchen window in Rosemark, but it is much more dramatic here.  Often as the rain approaches, 50% of your view can be cloudy blue skies and 50% can appear like a wall of water rolling off a hillside.  The picture below was taken from our back porch and you can see the rain moving in from the southwest.

the rain arrives it can last for five minutes or five hours and can really pour.  Since the most of the country is covered by a landscape ranging between hills and mountains, Rwanda has mastered ditch digging and has a truly impressive drainage system in place to deal with the heavy rainfalls.  This reduces not only landslides on the country's steep slopes (that are always to some extent tiered for agricultural purposes) but also the prevalence of standing water (the breeding ground for malaria-carrying Anopheles mosquitoes).  The photo below is on the road that leads to Akagera National Park in eastern Rwanda where you can see a pretty standard stone ditch.

The next picture is taken from on top of our guardhouse in Kigali (this is what you see when you walk out our gate).  You can see where the land has been cleared on the right for farming while the land to the left is still wild with a few banana trees.  This is a typical hillside rain water management chute, though they can be both steeper and longer in the more mountainous areas.  Keep in mind that all of this stonework is done by hand with all of the rocks being cut in the quarry using no system of standardization at all (and subsequently are chipped away on site until a rock fits the need).

This next picture was taken in northern Rwanda near the Ugandan border and shows some of the tiered agriculture on the hillsides.  The valleys that receive the runoff from the drainage system often grow tea, elephant grass (as seen in the foreground), and rice since they prosper in more swampy environments.

The last picture is me hanging out of a matatu on our way back from Lake Bunyonyi in southern Uganda with some of the landscape in the background.  This area is not as dramatic as western Rwanda but you get the idea.

On a related note, Memphis has been getting dumped on apparently the last few days and there is quite a bit of flooding throughout Shelby County (CA: Flooding Brings Chaos to Mid-South).  Do not fear, my family is safe!  The bridge pictured below is near our house and usually has about a 15-foot drop to the water (the stone wall you see is the barrier along the bridge).

And this is a cotton field...

Upper East Side Rat Infestation

If things had gone a little more like I had thought they would, I might still be living in an amazing apartment at 2nd Avenue and 91st Street in New York City.

This apartment had been totally redone with new appliances, fixtures and hardwood floors and a price tag probably 25% less than the going rate for something so nice.  I was sold.  Until I got outside and the reason for the discount became apparent:  The 2nd Avenue Subway Line.  Just on the other of the far window in the picture, there were huge cranes everywhere and a ditch that covered three of the five lanes on 2nd Avenue.  The noise from the jackhammer digging that ditch nullified every other sound of the city including car horn honking.  The trusty construction workers promised me that they only worked 7am to 7pm M-F and 10am to 4pm on Saturday and Sunday, unless they were behind schedule.  Which seemed likely since while the project was slated to be finished in 2018, this is something like the fourth or fifth time someone has tried to get a subway built on 2nd Avenue.  Ultimately, it was decided that I hadn't slept all that much in the prior three years and could not commit to the apartment until 2020 (at the earliest when it would actually be worth living there) so I passed on it much to my chagrin.

And now the Wall Street Journal comes out with an excellent article on the latest problem in this neighborhood related to the subway construction: RATS (WSJ: Rats Mob the Upper East Side).  While I could have handled these common New York City rats (which can never be compared to the rats in Boston's Public Garden that are the size of small dogs), it reminds me again how exciting it is to living in Rwanda where my household animals consist of a wide variety of lizards and birds that literally just stroll in out of our house as they like.  And also, I am hoping to see one of these shoebills (aka Balaeniceps Rex) this weekend at Akagera.

Food Security and Agri-Business Financing Program from Gates Foundation

As you may remember, the TechnoServe Coffee Initiative is funding exclusively by the Gates Foundation who foots the bill for technical assistance and business training but not for any material items or infrastructure for the farmers and their cooperatives.  The Gates Foundation is split into three functional groups covering Global Health, Poverty & Development, and Education & Information so the Coffee Initiative falls under Agricultural Development in the Poverty & Development category.  Within Poverty & Development, the foundation also addresses homelessness, financial services for the poor, and water, hygiene, and sanitation.  A broader issue covering each of these topics is Food Security, which has become a buzz concept across the developed and developing world, and the Gates Foundation is spending a lot of resources trying to understand it and address it.

On the financing side, we have been hearing whispers that the Gates Foundation is interested in setting up an agri-business financing program to bridge the gap between small-holder farmers and their ability to access capital.  The foundation has quite a bit of money to put in the ground so this is potentially another way to do it while addressing a major systemic problem in the developing world.  As things stand now financing in Africa would potentially come from two sources:

1. Large national or international aid organizations (UN, USAID, GTZ (German Development Agency), AFD (French Development Agency), World Bank, etc.) that typically fund entire programs (but don't implement them) or fund large infrastructure projects like roads, buildings, big factories, etc (big checks).
2. Local commercial banks that issue loans seemingly at random with steep guarantee requirements (50-100% cash infusion into the bank) and charge anywhere from 15-20% interest.  These banks also don't make much on say 20 $15,000 four-year loans even if they are charging high interest rates in an often times risk free situation (with the guarantee) so these small loan sizes are not very interesting for them.  All in all, small-holder farmers (and their cooperatives) with little or no credit history or bad credit history and no assets requiring small-ish loans for infrastructure investments in volatile commodities in often corrupt systems have a very difficult time accessing credit all.

Neither of these sources are applicable to small-holder farmers and their cooperatives since they cannot be accessed reliably in a timely manner (as I am reminded  everyday).  A program that addresses these issues is desperately needed to provide consistent financing to farmers and would revolutionize agriculture financing in the developing world.

Well, the Wall Street Journal published an Opinion piece today by Tim Geithner and Bill Gates to announce a financing vehicle funding by the Gates Foundation and a handful of developed countries to address these financing challenges (WSJ: A New Initiative to Feed the World).  While the article is very high level and there isn't much else out about it right now, this is potentially very exciting for what I am doing and could make a huge difference in the developing world.

On a related note, the coffee cherry in Rwanda is ripening and the coffee washing stations that were financed are installed and up and running.  Volumes collected by TNS-supported washing stations have been astronomically high and the system is working with a few kinks here in there (too much rain right now is ripening the coffee too fast to give it time to dry appropriately).  Anyway, the picture below is from one of our coffee washing stations near Kibuye on Lake Kivu in Western Rwanda (that is the promised land CONGO in the distance).

Iceland! Volcano! Rúntur!

Since I went to Iceland with some friends in February 2008, the small island nation has been in the news a lot.  Between the financial collapse, new government, and now the volcano paralyzing worldwide air travel, most people have learned more about Iceland than they ever thought they would.

Well, the volcano that is erupting lies under the same Eyjafjallajokull (pronounced ay-yah-FYAH'-plah-yer-kuh-duhl) Glacier that we went snowmobiling on when we were there.

While not on this glacier, my friend Morgan did break his leg on a frozen ice sheet on this trip so he spent our last night in Reykjavik in the hospital (while the rest of us went to see a movie on the volcanos of Iceland).

All in all, I highly recommend Iceland!

Hopefully things will clear up ASAP because Anne (Lucy's mother) is scheduled to leave New York on Wednesday to come visit us next week!

So a few additional links on the eruption:

• WSJ: Volcano Eruption Halts European Flights
• WSJ: Ice Made Iceland Eruption Much More Problematic
• WSJ: Grounded Fliers Struggle to Find Alternate Routes - Check out stranded woman who is 32 weeks pregnant now exploring Icelandic names (Thor! Axel! Snorri!)
• WSJ: Vow to Renew Flights Clouded by Ash Warning
• NYTimes: Photographing Iceland's Fiery Volcano